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Antiques! => Antique Questions Forum => Topic started by: hosman321 on December 27, 2009, 01:02:14 PM
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So, I have been trying to win an antique cage on EBAY for a few weeks with no luck. Someone always comes in within the last 3 seconds and outbids me. I got tired of trying and started searching CL in areas other than mine. I found this cage listed at $40. But Since it's a 4 hour rounds trip right during the holidays, I asked them to hold it for over a week and I'd give them $60. So, I'm picking it up Wednesday but I have a few questions.
Does the stand appear to be antique, maybe the original? Does it look like a repro?
I just now noticed that the cage is missing the bottom, should it be fairly easy to find a replacement? I know a lot of people have severly damaged cages like this, maybe they'd sell me the bottom for cheap?
Is this a good deal? Sorry I don't have more detailed pictures, thanks for any input!
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That's a good deal on the stand. it's 1920's. you might want to check with Greg over at North Fork Pet's as to a base for the cage, I think it could be a problem. unless you make one.
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Just the stand is worth that amount. Agree with D&b. Might have to have a bottom made for it....but if that is what you like/want...go for it.
Beautiful stand!!!!!
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Too bad it is not a Hendryx cage that needs a rectangular brass bottom as I have one to fit. Nice stand.
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To remedy being outbid in the final seconds of an auction, I use this site: http://www.auctionsniper.com (http://www.auctionsniper.com) I use it only for items where there is likely to be a bidding war, or if I have to be away from my computer when an auction ends. It will shoot in your bid in the final seconds, which is when most of the action usually takes place. You get a certain number of free "snipes" and you get more as you refer others to the site. So far, I've never had to pay for them and I've been using it successfully for a couple of years now. You will only win if you are the high bidder though, so you have to calculate the highest amount you're willing to pay and then sit back and watch the action.
"Sniping" is pretty much how competitive auctions are won, and it can be fun to do it manually, if you are pretty fast with your "trigger finger" on the keyboard!
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Look up a local welder to fabricate a bottom for your cage if you aren't able to construct your own. I would wait until you have it in-hand and then design something that will clip on, rather than permanently altering the cage. Lovely cage and stand! Good going!
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A Machine Shop or Sheetmetal Shop can cut you a thin piece of circular aluminum and most probably can affix 3 or 4 "spring clips" so that it will "snap-on" to the bottom of your cage.
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Thanks for all the advice guys, you're always so helpful! They said they may even deliver it to me, which would save a ton of time and gas. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
I'll look up places to make me a simple bottom. I can't imagine it costing a fortune. I hope everything goes well because now I'm really excited. Thanks again!
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I LOVE AUCTION SNIPER!!!! Works for me! Ticks other people off....but I know what I pay top amount....and don't always have time to play the game and bid at the last minute!
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The other nice feature about Auction Sniper is that you can change your bid amount if you have a change of heart.
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Well, I feel like I might be getting the run around from the seller. She did email me this morning to say that she is working too much and her boyfriend is now responsible for the cage. She said to contact him so we called and emailed and he hasn't emailed back. But it's only 3:00pm, maybe he's working. But Portland had a big snow storm last night and I really don't want to make the drive there at night when the temp goes back down below freezing! I also looked at that North Fork's website and wow, I guess I am gettin' a good deal. Their stands from the 20's (that aren't nearly as detailed) are between $200-$400. Well, wish me luck! I really don't want to be stood up. :(
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Best of luck!!!!
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Well, the boyfriend said he can't deliver it until Saturday. He's going to Seattle too late tonight to meet us so he's going to keep it in his car until he comes back from Seattle on Saturday. Anyone else seeing this go badly? I do!
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Does sound a bit Wonkie of a deal, but I live in Seattle, need someone to fetch it? It does sound like a great deal really hope you get it.
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That's really very nice of you ironlord1963, but they didn't really offer for us to come pick it up for some reason. They kinda insisted they deliver it on Saturday on their way back down to Portland. So I guess I won't bug them too much, I'll just have to be patient and see how everything goes. I'm the most impatient person I know, especially when it comes to antiques! These next few days will be so long. Nice to meet someone from my neck of the woods. I'm in Graham. I grew up in Tacoma. :)
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Cool little cage .
Hope the deal closes when you expect it to !
Another N.W. native here , hosman321 .
Live right near T-town .
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Sounds like a typical run around.the cage is victorian. the stand is typical of the 1900's stick lamp. well worth the asking price.
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Wow, Regularjoe2, I didn't expect anybody to be from my area. Have you ever gone to the Pacific Run Antique Mall in Spanaway?
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Yes , hosman321 , been there .... but usually I'm a sorta behind-the-scenes kinda guy ; more often found @ private & semi-private estate sales/art sales .
Don't get me wrong though , I might even show up @ a garage sale , since I know that "deals are where you find them" !
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Well, looks like I got stood up, they won't respond. They promised me that cage a million times and promised I'd have it today. Pretty upset, I'll have to pay a lot more if I want to find a stand and cage like that. Oh well, that's life huh?
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Sorry to hear that Hosman, Another deal will come along and maybe it will be the better. My wishes go out to you.
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Well, if they are traveling from Portland, they may have been delayed or have been unable to respond to email. See if they don't reply tomorrow. You didn't pay up front without getting the cage in hand, did you?
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Yeah, their plan was to go from Portland up to Seattle on Wednesday. Then return to Portland today and drop the cage to us along the way home. Maybe they just decided to go home tomorrow. But they should have called to let us know, they have all 3 of our numbers and said they'd call. I'll keep my fingers crossed. And I didn't pay for it beforehand, if I ever did that I would use paypal and have a lot of email correspondence just in case. Thanks for the help guys.
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Well, she just sent me this email. I'm startin' to wonder if I should make the drive. I'd hate to be stood up. But knowing me, I'm gonna try anyways! Apparently they never came up here. Or she never did. Or he didn't bring the cage. No idea...
Hi Jessica,
Sorry about the lack of communication from Seth, I won't bother making
excuses for him.
I am done with work for a few days so I can pick up where I left off
with you. I still have the cage and I will still hold it for you if
you want it. It doesn't look like anyone in my household will be
coming up north anytime soon, so let me know when and if you want to
come and pick it up.
Sorry again,
Kenya
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It does sound like shes making an effort to communicate at least, and like the cage is there for you. I'd say jump in the car and go get it and try to enjoy the drive out. I've made day trips of 200+ miles for things I really wanted. I would consider the cost of the drive, the price of the cage, cost of the bottom fabrication, devoting your time and weigh them against how much you like the cage.
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Does anybody know of any Hendryx-related sites that have some kind of list of when cages were made? I have another Hendryx cage and I am trying to see when it was made. I keep seeing the same exact Hendryx cages everywhere so I'm pretty sure there has to be some site or list somewhere of what years specific ones were made. I can't find anything. Thanks!
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hosman, don't know if this will be any help to you. They do have some Hendryx cages listed, but I didn't go through all the pages. Give it a shot, it might help you a bit with dates.
http://pages.northforkpets.com/11570/InventoryPage/1712905/1.html
Use their Search feature to narrow it down to just Hendryx ;)
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Thank you' Sapphire :) Andrew B. Henryx co opened in 1875 inlarged in 1879 closed out. Sold to Winchester Arm's in 1919. :)
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Sorry to hear they're flakey sellers , hosman .
The one thing I've seen , from your posts , is the fact that they are consistent folks .
Consistent at being inconsistent .
If you did make the trip down to Portland , is there something that would honestly make you think they'll be home / will show up ?
If it were me , in your boots , I'd send them a polite email - stating that I'd trusted them to show up in Washington state and was sorry that they could not make the trip , as promised .
What with no-showing , lack of communication & such , I'd not bother dealing with them .
Portland is a big city & they should be able to find a local buyer there .
The one other way to deal with them , perhaps , is dependant upon you having a friend down in Portland , who'd be willing to pick up this item (maybe the friend could get it for less , too - sorry - I'm in touch with my inner cheapskate on this deal) .
But that's just me & my opinion .
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I agree that they are consistently no shows!
However, it it is something you really want for a great price...plan a quick get-away trip and go!
We've done this a few times in our lives and most have turned out to be blessings in disguise. Fun get aways...great food...change of pace...and the piece finally in my hands!
The only thing to worry about...will they be there when they say they are to pick it up!!
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Re: Hendryx birdcages. I believe only the fishing tackle division was sold to Winchester in 1919. The birdcages continued to be marked Hendryx for years. Reference www.businessnewhave n.com/article_page.lasso?id=42616
[Over time the Audubon Street plant became obsolete. The company planned to move into a new facility in Branford but later abandoned the idea and instead sold its assets to the Chicago-based Prevue Metal Products. However, the company's birdcages still carry the Hendryx name. Observed company co-owner Richard Savitt, "Hendryx is the oldest living faction of the pet industry and is very well recognized in the marketplace. It's a major antique item throughout the world. There's no way we were going to lose that history."
In December of 1996 the last remnants of the Audubon Street plant were sold at a two-day auction.]
In its heyday, Hendryx had..." During the year of 1903 the company purchased the property adjoining on the south formerly occupied by the New Haven Chair Company, thereby more than doubling their original plant.
At the present time they manufacture 350 different styles and sizes of brass, bronze and japanned bird and animal cages, and in addition complete lines of fishing reels, artificial baits, chains and wire picture cord."
Google Andrew B. Hendryx Company for references to above info.
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Wow, thanks for all that advice! You guys always know just where to look for the right info. I picked up my new cage tonight. The girl looked really young. What am I saying really young? She looked my age (23). :D
The bottom is very rusted, I'm cleaning it with baking soda and vinegar. The rust is just dripping away. I hope I'm not doing this incorrectly, but the metal appears fine and red water is just coming off. I just know that if I do nothing, the stand will rust through fairly quickly. Maybe within a few years. It has been kept outside in Oregon weather. I can tell because the stand was filled with spiderwebs and cocoons. Yuck.
The cage is a hendryx, so I'll be scoping places for an original bottom. I prefer it over a brand new one. I may ask North Fork, but I saw a small hendryx bottom on their site and it was $100. I don't really want to spend that much. I may have to though. The stand is actually pretty. The long bar has a simple design and a nice green patina on parts. Just the base is bad. The top of the stand has minor rust, but I'll just leave it because I also like it's patina. I'm not trying to make this thing look brand spankin' new. But I want it to be appealing to the eye, and right now it's definitely not. I may try to polish the cage itself. I believe it's brass. Any recommended products/chemicals if I decide to? I already bought some vintage glass hendryx feeders on ebay, too. I think I may have found a new antique "category" to collect. Oh no!
By the way, my camera is making everything look great again. The cage is nowhere near that color. It's very dull. That's the color I want it to be though!
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Great day for you. Good news, and thanks for the journey, hope to hear more of these sucess stories from you in the future.
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After 5 hours of scrubbing I can finally see....is that really...tiny little spots of bare metal?! Another 100 hours or so of scrubbing and this thing might actually be rust free lol.
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Beautiful I am in love with this piece!!!! Keep cleaning and please post photos when you are done!!!!
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Very nice looking cage and stand hosman! If you want to stabilize the rust on the bottom and are not worried about the antique aspect, there is a product you can buy. I have used it on rust on a trailer and then painted it black. It is Plasti-Kote brand Rust Converter. I bought mine at the hardware store. It chemically converts the rust to a black stable finish and you can then paint over it without bleed through. This is only if you are going to paint the base anyway. If you want to keep it as is, I would buy a brass brush at the harware store (welding section) to help get in the scrolls and scrub loose rust out.
As for a Hendryx cage bottom, I would just keep searching secondhand stores, SA, Goodwill, online auctions, antique shops, post a "wanted" on Craigslist, etc. as they made these cages for years and there are alot of them out there. The bottoms are the first to go because people did not clean them when they put them away and the natural chemicals ate away the metal.
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I just went on Etsy under vintage and typed birdcage and a little ways down there is a cage that looks identical to yours (only in real nice condition with the round brass bottom) for $185. It says it is 10" in diameter. At the very least, you will be able to see what the bottom tray should look like. It is not just a thin sheet of metal but a formed brass round dished tray that adds alot to the character of the birdcage.
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Hooray!! Nice find you have there! Looks fantastic! It's always great when you get a good deal like that. Well done!
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Congrats on closing the deal on the cage , sans 'the bird' , hosman321 !
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Congrats on getting the cage/stand! Looks great. Some hours of work on it and you will truly feel you own it!
There's nothing like the hunt, find, buy and have it in your hands!!!!!
The style on the stand is very famous from Victorian times. If you look at Victorian swing-arm drapery rods...majority are made with this design!
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Thanks for the compliments guys. I know this cage and stand aren't particularly unique or rare, but I just think they are wonderful! Probably one of the coolest antiques I have. I don't know though, I love a lot of my rare newspapers too. Most of the reason I love antiques are the history behind them, not necessarily the item. What has this cage seen? Who kept it during the depression? Who enjoyed their little birds during WWII when it felt like the world was falling apart? Who passed it down to their kids? May sound cheesy, but I just love wondering where it's been.
I have been looking on ebay and found a few complete hendryx cages exactly like mine. There are 3 different bases, a tapletop-type one with a pedestal. A fairly large base that has a slide out tray, and a plain piece of metal that just clips on. I really want the slide out one. There's one on Ebay but the entire cage was painted red and looks really ugly. Although I bet it could be removed. But I went kinda crazy this payday and spent way too much money. I've been cut off. :( I don't want to miss out on some of the deals, but I'll just have to wait. I can't decide yet if I'll paint the stand. I just love the green metal so I guess I'll scrub a little longer to see where I get. If anyone happens to see a bottom for cheap, or maybe a really damaged cage with a bottom, please let me know! The bottom of the cage is 10" from one side to the other. Now I'm excited to get my little hendryx glass feeders, I'm watchin' for the mailman. I also find it amazing the size of cages people used to keep living things in. I raise birds and I wouldn't even keep a single finch in something that tiny!
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350202953206&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370315441829&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Too bad this guy wants that much shipping, good price for the base.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370298111822&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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I would bid on the red painted one. It would be worth it just for the base. The paint will come off metal with remover. The brass may be a little shiny but that will patinate within a year to a dull finish. If the reserve is not too high (why does the seller have a reserve on an overpainted birdcage?) it would be OK.
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Well, I bid $25 and that's not enough. If it's still there on payday maybe I'll go a little higher. But I hope he's not expecting to get over $100 or something for a painted cage.
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Getting there...
I think my arms might fall off. Defnitely buying wire brushes tonight. I've been using crumpled up tin foil. Works great, but my hands hurt. Big difference from that first pic, huh?
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WOW, that looks real good! I did not know tinfoil did such a great job. How many jars of elbow grease did it take to get it looking like that?
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I just soak it in peroxide for about 10-15 minutes. Add a little baking soda for some grit and start scrubbing with tin foil. Rinse away the rust and repeat. Sometimes I use vinegar and baking soda instead. I have used about half a bottle of peroxide. Half a box of baking soda. And one bottle of vinegar. As for how much elbow grease? I have nothin' left lol. At least it's a good workout! I'm hoping it will go faster once I have brushes.
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Ok, so I have kind of hit a road block with the rust over here. All the scrubbing in the world isn't removing the last bit. I have a few questions about what to do next...
I am finding a nice green paint on the top. It doesn't really look like patina to me, it looks more like old paint. And I'm liking that color better than the Antique White paint I was imagining. Plus, it will be easier to use a medium color if I'm going to use that rust converter product that will turn the rust black. White would take a few coats to cover it. But the product says, "Use on Rusty Surfaces composed of Steel only." Is the base to my stand composed of steel? What if it's Iron? Metals definitely aren't my area, should I use this product on there?
Also, are there any paint brands anyone recommends? Or will pretty much any non-glossy paint do fine? Should it be oil based? Water based? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do this right and also make it still look old! I definitely don't want some shiny glossy looking antique. Thanks for any input.
The second pic is of my baby Lady Gouldian finch, Squirt. He flew up there and took a little nap, I had to take a pic. I also got my two glass feeders today, they fit great.
The green color is kinda the color I want to use, a dull green.
Made a big boo-boo though and bought the cage in the last pic today. We'll call it my early birthday present. Sigh.
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Iron has steel and steel has iron. Iron has more carbon content than steel so it can pour but steel contains iron. The alloy makeup is a little different but for your purposes the rust converter should work fine. For paint, I would use De-rusto or a similar type. Spray paint for metal would work here also.
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I don't know too much about antiques, but I wanted to comment that it's beautiful!!!
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I am finding a nice green paint on the top. It doesn't really look like patina to me, it looks more like old paint. And I'm liking that color better than the Antique White paint I was imagining. Plus, it will be easier to use a medium color if I'm going to use that rust converter product that will turn the rust black. White would take a few coats to cover it. But the product says, "Use on Rusty Surfaces composed of Steel only." Is the base to my stand composed of steel? What if it's Iron? Metals definitely aren't my area, should I use this product on there?
Well now, I've been watching this thread with interest and amusement.
Now iffen it was me cleaning that stand up the first thing I would have done was give it a good stiff brushing with a "steel bristled" wire brush, like this one, to wit:
(http://www.rj-brush.com/company/wire/1011.jpg)
Then I would have applied a good thick coat of paint remover all over it and after about an hour I would have went to work on it again with that "steel bristled" wire brush.
And via that brush, a sharp pointed metal pick and more dabs of paint remover where necessary, within a couple hours of brushing really hard it would have been shining all pretty n' clean and ready to spray paint with a can of "satin finish" rust inhibitor spray paint.
And 2 coats of spray paint would keep it looking purty for the next 20 years except for any dust collecting on it.
Cheers
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I agree with cogar that is the route I would have taken....least liked with all the muscle it takes....but the best results as far as I am concerned!
Why, here in the south they spray rusted items with a clear finish so that it looks rusted and stops it from rusting further! Sells better!!!!!
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Ok, I seriously can't make up my mind with this stand. I love the antique white (which I plan on sanding down a little bit) but I also love the green. The middle bar is super dull so the green matches that better. I also sort of like the top being green and the bottom being white. I just need some advice, I can't figure this out. I will also use sandpaper on the green to make it less "new" looking if I keep it. Should I make the top white, too? Sigh.
By the way, we don't ever use this shower. That's why it's kind of gross. And now, it's green too. Uh oh. Hope I don't get in trouble for that!
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Oh, and there are also marks on the underneath. Is it possible to find out when/where this came from if they are only numbers and letters?
One of them is B44 and the other is E376. Possibly E375.
The only maker's marks that I can find that has either a capital B4 or E3 are these Finnish ones. But mine is B44 and E376/5 so I don't know...
http://www.925-1000.com/Ffinland_Date_Code.html
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Another option is to leave all the paint off and to periodically use olive oil to keep the iron looking nice and the rust away. That's what I did with my iron and bronze door knocker. It is outside in the elements, but a coating of olive oil about once every couple of months keeps it looking great with no paint or other finishes.
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Good advice Talesof!
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Great, now I painted it. :(
I really don't wanna take all that paint off now, I should have asked you guys first. I think I might just paint the middle bar white, too. I'm almost positive it was brass plated at one point but all the brass plating has weathered away over 100 years or so. So, now it's an ugly bare metal and most websites say there isn't much you can do with the ugly metal underneath brass plating. Except paint it. Or, brass plate it again, which I don't really wanna do. Plus, I plan on keeping this thing for a very long time. So it's really just how I want it to be. As long as I don't do permanent damage, I think I'm in the green.
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Bottom line...this is yours. You are the one to live with it and love it. Do it the way that pleases you.
Someone down the line may get it when a relative wants to rework it or sells it...and they may strip it...and repeat the process again! :)
There are so many antique pieces I LOVE out there...but only so many I "should" have. So, get and use the ones that you can!
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Ok, I'm done. I'm pleased with it. For now lol.
I may paint the top part white later, who knows. But I like the green. I'll probably make the leaves on the base green just to tie it together better so it's not a drastic contrast. Thanks for all the help guys, sorry if I got a little annoying with this cage/stand!
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Well I think your Finch Squirt will approve ;D It is a wonderful piece with a story behind it and several lesson, Good deal once you got it. Looks Like you won all around.
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Nice cage .
Since you've already painted your item , you could really 'pimp it out' by adding white highlight(s) to the green metal elements & green to the white , and tie the two colors together in that manner .
When I mention highlighting here , I mean to paint certain 'high' (or low) portions of the cast elements of the 'stand' of your birdcage .
You could also distress the glossy paint a bit (after it's fully dry) with some 000 or finer grade steel wool , rather than sandpaper .
As KC said .... do it the way you like it !
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I was thinking of doing just that, regularjoe. Taking a small brush and highlighting the green with white and vice-versa. I might try it. I just don't want to have to add even more layers of paint if I mess it up. ;)
I really wish I could find this same stand somewhere online so I knew when/where it was from. And possibly see what it looked like orginally. But I know that's a slim chance. Anybody have any ideas about the maker's marks I posted a little further up? Thanks guys. And gals.
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Believe it or not , hosman , it's easy to do (with a steady hand and a light touch) with a cheapo SPONGE FOAM brush (think 'dollar store') .
The 'brush' is firm enough to avoid making hairline 'bogies' that are easy to make with bristle brushes .
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Ok, I know I said I was done with this thread but I just now got a bright idea. Literally.
I have been looking through patent sites and antique sites for hours. I think I just realized why I can't find out anything about my cage stand. I think it's a floor lamp. I was wondering why there was a hole at the top of the stand, I thought it was just a random hole. But now that I look at all of these other antique floor lamps, I see that they definitely didn't try to hide the cord coming out of the top. The cord just comes out the hole and leads to the fixture that hangs at the end. You can see it in these pics. And the style of my stand matches much better to these old floor lamps than it does to any cage stand I've ever seen. I was wondering why my base seemed to be a little bit different style. You can see the hole at the top of my stand somewhere in all these pics I have posted. Any ideas if I'm right or wrong on this? The following floor lamps are ones I found online that remind me of my stand design.
I'm actually fairly upset at this revelation. Here I tried so hard to paint it all white to look like all the old white cage stands. It looks nothing like a lamp anymore. I could have added a new fancy shade and fixture and not painted it like this.
I'm really surprised all you experienced guys and gals didn't call me out on this one! I feel pretty darn smart...for the moment at least. :D
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I did mention it was 1920's. typical stick lamp design. a close up at the beginning would have confirmed that. Of which was'nt available.
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Yes you did D&B.
Wouldn't Hosman's stand with a light socket and a Carnival or Cranberry glass shade on it ..... be a nice one to find in a dusty corner of someone's garage? ;D ;D ;D
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Cool .
Now you can find a lampworks & a bird cage stand & have your own unique 'fusion' display !
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Hey, now you could wire it, put a small light in the cage and have it illuminated with a couple of artificial feathered birds. Or you could put a UV light in there and grow a plant in the cage like a vine trailing out of it... Opens up all kinds of interesting options!
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We never know without all the details...plus there are so many "unique" items made that this was truly feasible.
You, however, with the up close and hands on ability figured it out! Great job!
Just for fun, I had mentioned swing arm drapery rods (aka crane rods) that this resembled from the Victorian era (and to art deco) here's a few to peek at!
http://www.malleries.com/antique-iron-swing-arm-curtain-rods-i-3308-s-4.html (http://www.malleries.com/antique-iron-swing-arm-curtain-rods-i-3308-s-4.html)
http://cgi.ebay.com/COLORFUL-VINTAGE-SWING-ARM-DRAPERY-RODS-WITH-BRACKETS_W0QQitemZ140373572177QQcmdZViewItemQQptZArchitectural_Garden?hash=item20aeeaba51 (http://cgi.ebay.com/COLORFUL-VINTAGE-SWING-ARM-DRAPERY-RODS-WITH-BRACKETS_W0QQitemZ140373572177QQcmdZViewItemQQptZArchitectural_Garden?hash=item20aeeaba51)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170413614176 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170413614176)
http://www.sherrades.com/s/Basic_Cranes/basic_cranes.html (http://www.sherrades.com/s/Basic_Cranes/basic_cranes.html)
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It seems these antique bird cages are the new decorating rage. My wife has been after me to buy one at a rummage sale so she went with me two weeks ago and bought a cage w cast iron stand in old blue paint for $8. Nothing fancy. The blue paint is chalky and for awhile my hands looked the part of The Blue Man Group.The glass feeder/water inserts were gone and I thought I could get repros or old ones reasonable. Wrong. I will be on the lookout for these now. Years ago they were common at sales. I remember seeing Hendryx glass inserts on many cages.
Just thought I would bring back up this topic because bird cages are in and not just for the birds.
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And some are pricey !!! At least you only spent $8. !!
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I have several sets of feeders wayward. I'm super attached to them because I collect all the different styles. But I may sell a set if you're interested. They are pricey on eBay!
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Thanks, hosman, but my wife doesn't care one way or the other about the feeders so I think I will just pick them up when and if I see them (cheap). That way you can keep your collection intact because I think they are neat too. I just did not think they would cost as much as they do, especially if they are original. I remember passing up cages at auctions and sales for a $1 or $2 where the only good part left was the feeder(s). But that was years ago when everything was still available.
I have a nice rectangular brass bottom tray for a Hendryx cage. Nice large 'HENDRYX' name embossed in it. Hendryx made fishing reels and lures years ago so I picked it up because it looked neat.
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Alrighty, let me know if you want them later. I have two of those sets. It can be hard to find a matching pair sometimes. I have one cool set that has the patent dates embossed on them. 1876 I think. They don't fit any of my cages but they are my favorites.